On the 19th November my grandmother Vasiliki drew her last breath surrounded by her four children.On the other side of the world I was being showered with flowers and love by my students on my last teaching day in Cambodia. I cannot get back to Greece in time for her funeral...but I will honour her memory and celebrate her life here in the best way I can.
Is it a coincidence that I was telling Phalla and Koosh about her life just yesterday?
Luckily I have some credit on my Cambodian phone and manage to talk to my father and aunties. My lovely brother has sent me a message to let me know. It is late. I painfully miss my family. I weep into a deep sleep and dream of her, my lovely Nona, whose soul I will not help to usher to heaven at the beautiful ceremony planned for her on the high Greek mountain that has been her home for most of her life.
Safe passage.
Kalo taksidi Giagia.
Friday 19 November 2010
On poverty and community empowerment
Poverty is not just defined by lack of money and security. It can be a state that people or groups of people are put in when they don’t have an opportunity to explore themselves, their potential and their future in the same manner that another group of people does.
So people can be defined as or feel poor when they don’t have the same opportunities as other groups that define themselves or they defined as privileged.
I guess poverty is really felt and prominent when people can make comparisons with others. This can be caused by societal disparities and inherent contrast. Poverty and particularly feeling poor might be dangerous because it can prevent action, limit creativity and innovation in communities. It can stop communities from supporting themselves, and lead them to rely on external support.
A community that can support itself and its members is empowered and is less likely to be antagonised by the ‘privileged’. And it might even be able to protect itself from the risk of and impacts of resource poverty. It may also be more succesful in creating opportunities for itself and its members. It can give its members the power and strength to avoid comparisons and dare. To take advantage of opportunities and assistance in a different manner. Assistance can come in monetary form but also importantly can be help with changing attitude. I think it is important to avoid creating dependent communities, to avoid supporting needy and ‘begging’ attitudes. In my view it is important to hand out knowledge as well as help the cultivation of essential skills (particularly skills that can be transferred to members of communities we assist).
Poverty is hard for me to define. My parents both came from poor but loving and happy families: I don’t attach the stigma that others do to ‘poverty’. They did suffer at times (particularly my father’s family) and for this reason they made sure that me and my brother were not deprived of basic commodities and education in life. I don’t think poverty is always synonymous with deprivation, despair and unhappiness. I want poverty that endangers the well being, health and safety of children and people eliminated. However, some of those that we would define poor seemed to have a better ‘quality of life’ in terms of family, connections and community engagement.
The project and people I worked with are dignified and honourable. They support each other. So the community support system is clearly effective. There were other groups of Cambodian people in urban areas of Siem Reap who seemed to be in living in a much poorer and deprived state (facing immediate health risks and famine).
I have no conclusions or statements on poverty just thoughts to share. I have a lot to think about.
Village Schools 5: Sroh
In my first week I visited and participated in lessons at the two village schools at the Pagoda as well as the 5 schools that I have documented in separate blogs. Also on my first day here I spent time at Pok’s, Rom’s and Sro’s schools (where I first introduced the clapping game). I am gutted that I have broken my promise and left Kun’s school out but Phalla really wants me to close my visit at Sro’s school. After all Kun’s school is too far, we are late and I promised to Sro’s children I will return. They are all waiting for me…
I am greeted with a dozen flower bunches. The students prance excitedly around me. This is the most tactile of the groups. Sroh’s warmth and humanity is reflected in their behaviour. I am proudly watching Sroh teach: I see all that he has learnt and puts into practice. I am amazed at my students’ capacity to learn, their thirst for knowledge and new skills. Sroh is an example of what they have all achieved in a very short time and how much they can absorb. He is a testament to their thirst for knowledge and as he stands there teaching he offiers me a glimpse of the bright future that awaits them.
We sing, we laugh, we hug… I leave…
Exit Neak Ru Lia. Until the next time.
I likes you too...
I am heartbroken as I finish my last lesson with the students. Today we start earlier but unfortunately Pok cannot make it. We play the clapping game and write down its rules. We finish our chapter and discuss what we have learnt.
Precious presents are passed to me: a couple of handmade bracelets, a photo to take with me, bananas and root vegetable, notes and hugs. Have I committed the sin of becoming too attached? I am hoping that it is not too bad. I hold my tears in and say good bye to most of the teachers apart from Sroh who I am going to see later. The teachers have corrected their most common mistake of adding 's' to verbs and nouns when they should not. ' I likes you' , which made me giggle during the first few lessons, is replaced with ' I like you, I will miss you. We love you'.
But all I want to say is : ' I likes you too'.
I really don't know what to say anymore. This has been too short and I don't feel ready to leave the students yet. There is so much more to do and say...But there are more people to come: this is just the beginning and somehow I know that they don't need anyone to stay. They know what they need and what to take to become stronger and independent in due course.
Precious presents are passed to me: a couple of handmade bracelets, a photo to take with me, bananas and root vegetable, notes and hugs. Have I committed the sin of becoming too attached? I am hoping that it is not too bad. I hold my tears in and say good bye to most of the teachers apart from Sroh who I am going to see later. The teachers have corrected their most common mistake of adding 's' to verbs and nouns when they should not. ' I likes you' , which made me giggle during the first few lessons, is replaced with ' I like you, I will miss you. We love you'.
But all I want to say is : ' I likes you too'.
I really don't know what to say anymore. This has been too short and I don't feel ready to leave the students yet. There is so much more to do and say...But there are more people to come: this is just the beginning and somehow I know that they don't need anyone to stay. They know what they need and what to take to become stronger and independent in due course.
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| Phalla and the teachers at CCHA (missing Pok) |
Angor Photo Festival
As you have figured I love roaming the streets of Siem Reap. I find out about the Angor Photo Festival after a visit to the John McDermott gallery on Pokambor Avevnue. The Angor Photo Festival alleges to be the unique in South East Asia. In its 6th year it has invited submissions of Asian photographers and offers them free photgraphic workshops with renowned photographers. Work of more than 110 photographers from 47 countries, is exhibited in different galleries and outdoor spaces. The work is curated by two well-known figures in photography, Yumi Goto and Antoine d’Agata, with Françoise Callier, the Program Director of the Angkor Photo Festival. Unfortunately I will miss the presentation on the 15 Asian women photographers on Saturday but I catch some of the work today as I wander in the city streets. Here is a glimpse:
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| Outdoor exhibits |
I catch some of the work exhibited at Hotel de La Paix, only the artist's name sounds Italian rather than Asian to me (Paolo Patrizi) . I also briefly meet Sasha Constable who is the exhibitions manager at the Hotel De La Paix. Hotel De La Paix also hosts an exhibition of KILT's jewllery, gratefully increasing their chances of transaction at this prestigious venue.
The work that seems to be displayed at the Angor festival is not necessarily placed in Asia. After all photographers are restless to travel further from home. And Asian photographers I guess want to see the rest of the world. So I also marvel at image of European starlings and cuban images narriating day to day life stories! There is also an interesting exhibition on life and disability and some local perspectives. Much of it documents hardship and poverty-mainly in black and white output.
I could definitely see Mr Green's Cambodia photos exhibited here. There is nothing comparable to his work on display. I think that the warmth, positivity and authenticity of Dan Green's work is missing. It would add a different and positive perspective to the documentation of this area's Khmer people. For the next one, good luck convincing them you are Asian Dan (but you do have Italian blood!). I reckon they should invite you to exhibit anyway.
If you want to know more about the festival there is a blog:
Random observations 2
More pyjama sightings
The images speak for themselves.
Qung Yo or 60 Road Market
One of the places that I have visited a couple of times with Phalla is the Qung Yo Market and fair ground. If you want to see where the locals gather in Siem Reap after 6 every evening head to Qung Yo Market. It is a daily feast of local food, delicacies and a permanent funfair that entertains all ages. The market and funfair spreads around the main roundabout leading to the Angor Wat temples entry. There are mainly food stalls but there are also other goodies of practical use to locals rather than tourists (clothes, hats, shoes). There are carpets laid out by the riverside and behind food stalls for the locals to spread on, enjoy their food and each others' company. My favourite thing here is the food: particularly the deep fried prawns and rice cakes. Sitting on a carpet and enjoying a 'light' evening meal is so familiar and comfortable to me. I love the fact that this is the locals' area. And they are all so welcoming to me being really discreet in their amazement to see me join their humble crowd.
Clearly, the Cambodian are fun loving people and enjoy socialising every night of the week. Phalla loves this place for another reason. There is a row stalls with his favourite game ; the ballon darts game. The aim of the game is to pop as many ballons as possible with the wonky darts you get. It is not that hard to get the balloons and we always leave with sweets or a drink. It is really worth a game just to see the sheer and sincere enthusiasm on Phalla's face.
Build up to the Water Festival
This morning I observe even more people in the streets of Siem Reap. There are continuous processions of monks and nuns, playing music and collecting donations. Boat blessings ceremonies are followed by loud music and celebrations even in the early morning. More countryside people are camping by the river. Close to Matt's bar there are local trade and food stalls up already. It is getting busier by the minute. I am intrigued and happy that I am not going to miss out on the Water Festival after all. It seems that I am in for a treat on Saturday, my last day in Siem Reap.
The images speak for themselves.
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| At the bank |
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| At a boat blessing ceremony |
Qung Yo or 60 Road Market
One of the places that I have visited a couple of times with Phalla is the Qung Yo Market and fair ground. If you want to see where the locals gather in Siem Reap after 6 every evening head to Qung Yo Market. It is a daily feast of local food, delicacies and a permanent funfair that entertains all ages. The market and funfair spreads around the main roundabout leading to the Angor Wat temples entry. There are mainly food stalls but there are also other goodies of practical use to locals rather than tourists (clothes, hats, shoes). There are carpets laid out by the riverside and behind food stalls for the locals to spread on, enjoy their food and each others' company. My favourite thing here is the food: particularly the deep fried prawns and rice cakes. Sitting on a carpet and enjoying a 'light' evening meal is so familiar and comfortable to me. I love the fact that this is the locals' area. And they are all so welcoming to me being really discreet in their amazement to see me join their humble crowd.
Clearly, the Cambodian are fun loving people and enjoy socialising every night of the week. Phalla loves this place for another reason. There is a row stalls with his favourite game ; the ballon darts game. The aim of the game is to pop as many ballons as possible with the wonky darts you get. It is not that hard to get the balloons and we always leave with sweets or a drink. It is really worth a game just to see the sheer and sincere enthusiasm on Phalla's face.
Build up to the Water Festival
This morning I observe even more people in the streets of Siem Reap. There are continuous processions of monks and nuns, playing music and collecting donations. Boat blessings ceremonies are followed by loud music and celebrations even in the early morning. More countryside people are camping by the river. Close to Matt's bar there are local trade and food stalls up already. It is getting busier by the minute. I am intrigued and happy that I am not going to miss out on the Water Festival after all. It seems that I am in for a treat on Saturday, my last day in Siem Reap.
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