Village Schools 3: Srey lin

Sreylin is very nervous when we arrive at her school. Soon we laugh her nerves off. We go through her lesson plan, then meet some members of her family. Her school is at the heart the Preh Dak village where she and Phalla are from. It is  built on the land of her house and is the village school closest to the Pagoda. Preh Dak is an ordered and beautiful village houses (huts) with rows of Cambodian houses on stilts.

Sreylin apologises for the dunk smell, which I had not really noticed until that point. The school is next to the open stable where her two buffalos rest. One of them is badly injured so she has to collect grass for him every morning from the fields to feed him. I can see that his injury upsets her very much. There are not many vets here so she hopes that the buffalo gets better and can walk again. But she fears that this might not happen.

As the village school is easily accessible the class is very busy, despite the earlier rain and muddy roads. Sreylin is one of the most methodical teachers. She is very nervous but actually her English is a lot better when she teaches rather when she is taught. She comfortably steps up to the challenge of teaching. Some people are simply tuned to be teachers and she seems to be one. I am so proud to watch her as she incorporates a spelling game in the lesson, homework check and a couple of songs. She also seems to have taken on board lesson planning, teaching tips and much of what we have learned and practiced. Towards the end of the lesson things get tougher for Sreylin as her whole family and some villagers have gathered around the class to watch her. It must be unnerving and we are all getting tired.

My day ends with some time with Srey lin and her family. Phalla plays translator but in reality not many words are spoken. Like the aspara dancers we perform this scene of interaction with gentle body movements and meaningful glances so that nothing gets lost.  I watch Sreylin’s mother quietly admiring her daughter. And that just that fills me with joy.

This grass roots community project is growing its own teachers. It is giving its own young people the opportunity to develop skills through practice, training and our small contributions, assistance, training. An opportunity that some of them might not have otherwise had. The project also gives the community the opportunity to marvel at its own strength and potential. I came here persuaded but as time goes by I grow more and more convinced that this is the way that skills should grow, from the roots like nature intended.

Thorny politics and tabús

In Cambodia there are some different accounts of the Khmer Rouge events than the one widely recorded. This has been described to me as ‘an uninformed viewer’s’ perspective but then in reality it is an oral account of the events from some of the local people’s subjective perspective.  If even in Cambodia, you might want to prepare to challenge your western pro democracy beliefs (as Lucy very well describes the way most of us have grown up). I had to carefully manage the feelings that some of the discussions evoked, be insightful and open minded.

One of the biggest challenges has been to see people idolise the Khmer Rouge and reminisce in its egalitarian principles. I deliberately did not read about modern Cambodian history in much detail but was aware of the main events, key political figures and observations as recorded by foreign historians. The events are very complicated. But I was, perhaps naively, baffled by some people’s affinity to the Khmer Rouge. Even more surprising is that some of these people are in their thirties or younger. Young adults who have no memory of the era and who interpret the facts as relayed to them by their family and close circles. Or perhaps this is not surprising at all.

It has not been easy to digest, particularly as I then came across some other people like Sopiah who had a different informed opinion through working at the Cambodian history documentation office. To understand this internal national conflict, this contradiction, you have to remind yourself that history does not seem to be taught at Cambodian schools and current teenagers are the first generation to which English is widely taught. This gives them future access to international accounts of the events for the first time. As many people tell me here Cambodians have not had access to a lot of the information internationally available because of language and education barriers. Annie, an informed English Language teacher, who has lived in Cambodia for ten years, also believes that the Cambodian reaction I observe is a national coping mechanism. Having gone through bereavement and grief myself I can relate to this and fully understand the analogy.

The Khmer Rouge era is a thorny subject, almost a tabù. Some people tell you that the killings have not happened whilst facing the victims’ skeleton shrines. I would have to dedicate a few months if not years to the subject to really look into it and be in a position to challenge oral history and accounts.

There is something else to bear in mind. I say what I about to say mustering all the understanding and objectivity I can find within me: historical events are subjective accounts to a certain extent and are experienced differently by individuals and their families. They have a different impact and consequences on different groups and individuals.  Historical interpretations can be fabricated and powerful media or international politicians can legitimise one account over another.

I have to remind myself about the Greek civil war and how it tore my father’s family apart. It was a time that uncles nearly killed nephews in the dark forests or if you want to name people kill my own 10 year old father. Atrocities committed in the name of a leader of a political ideology never impress me. And what angers me sometimes is that nations can be acting out a scenario created by masterful puppeteers, in international political and economic growth ploys a lot bigger than their national reality or concerns.

We can all pick a side in historical events but does this make our choice right?  And is it not a lot easier to do this when you are detached from this event as it does not take place in your country? It is easier to condemn other people’s mistakes or actions than your own.

So whilst I am instinctively averted by the Khmer Rouge events and the evidence I can see, I have no intention to impose my views on anyone. I also think I need to do a bit more research to be informed.

I have reaffirmed one thing today: I will continue to judge people by their actions and not their statements and political opinions.  Look at some of the self righteous westerners and their states condemning and taking positions in the media yet subversively intervening in historical events and committing silent atrocities through their continuing colonialist behaviour in the name of capitalism and self interst.

Sopanha's place

The cook and I

At Sopanha's

Sopanha and Koosh

Siem Riep can definitely offer culinary indulgence. There are many classy restaurants with delightful dishes, amazing decor and excellent service. But the standard of food is usually excellent in smaller and reasonable places and avant guarde restaurants. Apart from the rare occassion, I have preferred to savour the home cooked dishes of road side cafes and particularly of small, family run restaurants. One of the best restaurants I have dined at in Siem Riep is Arun Restaurant where Ming Pow nourishes her visitors. This is the restaurant behind which my room was placed.

Another great place is Sopanha's on 12D Mondul Svay Dangkom. Sopanha is a lively and passionate man. His English is impressively good as is his knowledge of Cambodian's history (at least this is the impression he gives me). As well as running a small restaurant he is a tourist guide. Sopanha’s family suffered the consequences of recent historical events in Cambodia. His is a different perspective: he used to work with the office of national documentation (apologies for the most likely incorrect term), so he has seen evidence of the killings that took place during the Khmer Rouge regime. Combined with his family experience he is one of the people who perhaps as a Cambodian is better placed to give you an accurate introduction to the historic events that took place in Cambodia at the end of the seventies. So I would visit him or contact him to take you around places if you ever find yourself in Siem Reap.

This unpretentious small restaurant can be found opposite the11^th January High school and offers me a fantastic  traditional lemongrass soup. The food is cooked by Sopanha’s wife. He has 7 women running this place with him. Some are daughters, some are nieces.  There are a couple of boys running out to school in a rush. As I am waiting for Phalla I indudge in Sopanha's company.  We talk excitedly.

As Phalla’s ‘hello kitty’ car (there is a massive hello kitty sticker in the middle of the back window), stops to meet me outside Sopieh’s, the torrential rain gets heavier. It is welcome and refreshing on this muggy day. It has actually been raining every day since the beginning of this week but usually in the late afternoon or at night. In these conditions, Phalla’s little car transforms into a mini 4x4 as we turn into muddy dirt tracks with large pools of water.  Water gets into the engine and I pray we make it to our destination. But I should have no fear, there are numerous lucky charms blessed by the monks adorning the CCHA vehicle. In any case Phalla keeps crossing the water pools fearlessly and despite the smoke coming from the engine! Somehow it all works and  we get to the Pagoda school in time.