'I am able' at the Angor night market

Photo link:

http://picasaweb.google.com/liamoutselou/IAmAbleAtTheNightMarket#

You will probably think that I have nothing better to do than wander in markets. I see markets as hubs of activity that depending on their location can reveal the character and culture of the place and different neighborhoods.

Tonight I rent a bicycle, making sure that the front light works. I am such a geek; I have actually brought my bike lights with me. I must be the only cyclist with flashing lights in Siem Reap. I really think that cycling is the safest and nicest form of transport for me at night. The roads are not so busy, I avoid walking in dark and quiet parts on my own, and I can go everywhere I want. I think it is important to be an experienced cyclist and it helps that I can drive and cycle on both sides of the road being from Greece (I had to blow my own trumpet here). The ride along the river at night is wonderful. It is warm but comfortable. I cannot even remember what rain and cold is like.

I have slowed down and adapted my rhythms to Cambodia. I have also become as cheeky a cyclist as the Cambodian ones. Sod politeness, this is survival time.

I'll be honest: I don't actually know how I found the old Market but I am actually there after a long cycle. There is a bicycle parking shed for 1000 riel. The Angor night market stretched out under a bamboo roof. It is vast and beautifully lit. At its entrance I recognise the traditional Khmer music band that Dan has filmed. I also recognise the sound of the music from my early morning wake up call the other day. I observe the instruments. I think I am going to get me one of these string instruments that looks like a cross between a mini berimbau (capoeira music : one string Brazilian instrument) and a Cretan lyra. Not yet though.

I know that some of you (particularly Elpida) might find it very strange that I have not written much about food yet. It is possibly because I don't know where to begin. I am in culinary heaven, taking notes and learning things. I want to savour everything but my stomach is not begin enough and I don’t want to seem greedy too. At the old market I eat a mango pancake, with cream, chocolate and roasted almonds. What more need Isay...

There is a beautiful bamboo built bar amongst short palm trees in a hidden corner of the market. There are a couple of westerners including me but here the people are mainly Cambodian. A small stage is set up ready for a performance. ' I am able' is  a local disabled community group aiming to raise awareness on human rights of the handicapped. The young actors and actresses are landmine and polio victims. Through performance and art: playing music, singing and dancing, performing their own poems and choreography they highlight they difficulties faced by the disabled . Different acts narrate individual stories and show the hurt and despair of the individual as they enter a world of discrimination. There are some painstakingly beautiful songs. Some fighting scenes. Some positive messages as communities understand the drama of an individual and embrace them back in society restoring their hope.

The lady serving me tells me that this is just one group , there are so many. It almost seems that the frequent occurrence of such accidents plays down their tragedy. I guess all human being become desensitised when faced with a tragedy so common. There are still many landmines. Unexploded Ordnance (UXO) is still a problem in Cambodia and Laos. I know that Koosh a friend of Phalla, Dan and Lucy works with another charity supporting landmine victims. I will meet him in a couple of days on his return  from Battamang ( another city nearby).

Why am I the only person watching this? Why are all these people passing by not looking?

I sip my beer , chat to some people and watch the show.

At the end of the show everyone bows at me and the thank me one by one making eye contact. I am almost embarrassed. I think Cambodian culture is rubbing off on me.