Shadow puppets and celestial dancers

I was intrigued to find out about Khmer shadow puppetry. During my childhood the stories and comedy of shadow theatre offered me endless hours of entertainment in Greece. Karagiozis and the rest of his shadow theatre cast were no longer widely encountered in street theatre performances when I was growing up but there were still regular TV shows during the week, which I hardly missed. In Cambodian shadow puppet theatre I see the origins of the Greek Karagiozis. I don’t understand a word of Khmer but I am in stitches as the puppeteers do their slapstick comedy act hurting each other and making funny voices. I love this a bit too much.

I also get the opportunity to catch some Apsara dancing, the ballet of the celestial dancers. This is a form of traditional Khmer classical ballet. Beautiful female dancers offer a delicate dance in intricately ornamented costumes. The choreography is acted out not just by movement but also gentle facial expressions, eyelid batting and subtle neck tilts and shakes. The Khmer women and their movement are ethereal. Perhaps the most impressive of all their moves is the arch of their elastic fingers, with hands held in prayer and fingers almost freakishly bending backwards. Their hands remain pointed this way throughout their performance. I try holding this position for a minute and I get a cramp.

I have the best ending to the laziest day of the week. Above the restaurant of my hostel I discover a serene massage area. I have booked myself for a Thai massage. An hour of rubbing, realigning my spine and then I am off to sleep. Untangled and lighter…

Sunday riverside bliss

I am facing a week of intensive teaching, so I give myself the day off. I sleep in and have a lazy breakfast. The cycle along the river is a mistake as the temperature is much higher than I expected. It's muggy today. I return to the sheltered restaurant of my hostel by the Siem Reap river, where I type up blog entries, review last week’s teaching, roughly plan lessons and sip tea.

I am also the comfortable spectator of the Siem Reap rowing teams’ training in preparation for the Water Festival starting a day after my departure. I am told that I might catch some of the opening celebrations on my last Saturday here.  This rowing competition is the second biggest celebration in Cambodia after New Year in April.  Rowing teams from all over Cambodia compete against each other in the Siem Reap River. This is accompanied by festivities. The locals, monks and the monasteries are in preparation and there is already a festive atmosphere. The boats are decorated in colorful tribal patterns.

Later Stephane and I meet in town and sip numerous cooling fruit juices. Stephane also walked out of the pub street bar he suggested we meet on Saturday. Eventually, he discovered a small roof top bar run by a compatriot of his and ended up partying until 6 am.  He is in a state but still cheerful. We go to the bar for a ‘hair of the dog’ treatment for the monsieur.  The bar is ok with its best feature its mini skateboard park and the breeze it catches because of its location.





Roof top bar in Siem Reap town





Skater park



As we chat away, I am certain there can be no language barrier when people want to communicate. Stephane thinks that Phnom Penh is more authentic than Siem Reap, which has fast become a tourist destination. He tells me about his day at Angor Wat on Saturday and asking the driver to take him to ‘real’ Siem Reap. His heart was broken when he drove through the slums. As a traveler he does not think that he has seen the reality of this place.   I realise how fortunate I am, how differently I am acquainting myself with Cambodia. In a week I have seen more of the real Siem Reap and its countryside than many people traveling for months do. This is because of Phalla and my choice to venture out in the wider periphery of Siem Reap rather than just stick to its tourist centre. Knowing people here helps but hopping on a bicycle and being willing to wander in the streets also helps. 

After a couple of hours Stephané is collapsing dilapidated after the heavy night. He needs more food, a nap and a shower before the last night of partying in Siem Reap. I remain to be convinced. Not that I don’t enjoy a good night out but I have other plans for my evening.  

Tight hugs and goodbyes to Stephane. Au revoir! And 'good luck for you'.