My grandmother

On the 19th November my grandmother Vasiliki drew her last breath surrounded by her four children.On the other side of the world I was being showered with flowers and love by my students on my last teaching day in Cambodia. I cannot get back to Greece in time for her funeral...but I will honour her memory and celebrate her life here in the best way I can.

Is it a coincidence that I was telling Phalla and Koosh about her life just yesterday?

Luckily I have some credit on my Cambodian phone and manage to talk to my father and aunties. My lovely brother has sent me a message to let me know. It is late. I painfully miss my family. I weep into a deep sleep and dream of her, my lovely Nona, whose soul I will not help to usher to heaven at the beautiful ceremony planned for her on the high Greek mountain that has been her home for most of her life.

Safe passage.

Kalo taksidi Giagia.

On poverty and community empowerment

Poverty is not just defined by lack of money and security. It can be a state that people or groups of people are put in when they don’t have an opportunity to explore themselves, their potential and their future in the same manner that another group of people does.

So people can be defined as or feel poor when they don’t have the same opportunities as other groups that define themselves or they defined as privileged.  

I guess poverty is really felt and prominent when people can make comparisons with others. This can be caused by societal disparities and inherent contrast. Poverty and particularly feeling poor might be dangerous because it can prevent action,  limit creativity and innovation in communities. It can stop communities from supporting themselves, and lead them to rely on external support.

A community that can support itself and its members is empowered and is less likely to be antagonised by the ‘privileged’. And it might even be able to protect itself from the risk of and impacts of resource poverty. It may also be more succesful in creating opportunities for itself and its members. It can give its members the power and strength to avoid comparisons and dare. To take advantage of opportunities and assistance in a different manner. Assistance can come in monetary form but also importantly can be help with changing attitude. I think it is important to avoid creating dependent communities, to avoid supporting needy and ‘begging’ attitudes. In my view it is important to hand out  knowledge as well as help the cultivation of essential skills (particularly skills that can be transferred to members of communities we assist).

Poverty is hard for me to define. My parents both came from  poor but loving and happy families: I don’t attach the stigma that others do to ‘poverty’. They did suffer at times (particularly my father’s family) and for this reason they made sure that me and my brother were not deprived of basic commodities and education in life. I don’t think poverty is always synonymous with deprivation, despair and unhappiness. I want poverty that endangers the well being, health and safety of children and people eliminated. However, some of those that we would define poor seemed to have a better ‘quality of life’ in terms of family, connections and community engagement.  

The project and people I worked with are dignified and honourable. They support each other.  So the community support system is clearly effective. There were other groups of Cambodian people in  urban areas of Siem Reap who seemed to be in living in a much poorer and deprived state (facing immediate health risks and famine).

I have no conclusions or statements on poverty just thoughts to share. I have a lot to think about.

Village Schools 5: Sroh

In my first week I visited and participated in lessons at the two village schools at the Pagoda as well as the 5 schools that I have documented in separate blogs. Also on my first day here I spent time at Pok’s, Rom’s  and Sro’s schools (where I first introduced the clapping game). I am gutted that I have broken my promise and left Kun’s school out but Phalla really wants me to close my visit at Sro’s school. After all Kun’s school is too far, we are late and I promised to Sro’s children I will return. They are all waiting for me…

I am greeted with a dozen flower bunches. The students prance excitedly around me. This is the most tactile of the groups. Sroh’s warmth and humanity is reflected in their behaviour. I am  proudly watching Sroh teach:  I see all that he has learnt and puts into practice. I am amazed at my students’ capacity to learn, their thirst for knowledge and new skills. Sroh is an example of what they have all achieved in a very short time and how much they can absorb. He is a testament to their thirst for knowledge and as he stands there teaching he offiers me a glimpse of the bright future that awaits them.

We sing, we laugh, we hug… I leave…

Exit Neak Ru Lia. Until the next time.

I likes you too...

I am heartbroken as I finish my last lesson with the students. Today we start earlier but unfortunately Pok cannot make it. We play the clapping game and write down its rules. We finish our chapter and discuss what we have learnt.

Precious presents are passed to me: a couple of handmade bracelets, a photo to take with me, bananas and root vegetable, notes and hugs.  Have I committed the sin of becoming too attached? I am hoping that it is not too bad. I hold my tears in and say good bye to most of the teachers apart from Sroh who I am going to see later. The teachers have corrected their most common mistake of adding 's' to verbs and nouns when they should not. ' I likes you' , which made me giggle during the first few lessons, is replaced with ' I like you, I will miss you. We love you'.

But all I want to say is : ' I likes you too'.

I really don't know what to say anymore. This has been too short and I don't feel ready to leave the students yet. There is so much more to do and say...But  there are more people to come: this is just the beginning and somehow I know that they don't need anyone to stay. They know what they need and what to take to become stronger and independent in due course.

Phalla and the teachers at CCHA (missing Pok)

Angor Photo Festival

As you have figured I love roaming the streets of Siem Reap. I find out about the Angor Photo Festival after a visit to the John McDermott gallery on Pokambor Avevnue. The Angor Photo Festival alleges to be the unique in South East Asia. In its 6th year it has invited submissions of Asian photographers and offers them free photgraphic workshops with renowned photographers. Work of more than 110 photographers from 47 countries, is exhibited in different galleries and outdoor spaces. The work is curated by two well-known figures in photography, Yumi Goto and Antoine d’Agata,  with Françoise Callier, the Program Director of the Angkor Photo Festival. Unfortunately I will miss the presentation on the 15 Asian women photographers on Saturday but I catch some of the work today as I wander in the city streets. Here is a glimpse:



Outdoor exhibits



I catch some of the work exhibited at Hotel de La Paix, only the artist's name sounds Italian rather than Asian to me (Paolo Patrizi) . I also briefly meet Sasha Constable who is the exhibitions manager at the Hotel De La Paix. Hotel De La Paix also hosts an exhibition of KILT's jewllery, gratefully increasing their chances of transaction at this prestigious venue.

The work that seems to be displayed at the Angor festival is not necessarily placed in Asia. After all photographers are restless to travel further from home.  And Asian photographers I guess want to see the rest of the world. So I also marvel at image of European starlings and cuban images narriating day to day life stories! There is also an interesting exhibition on life and disability and some local perspectives. Much of it documents hardship and poverty-mainly in black and white output.

I could definitely see Mr Green's Cambodia photos exhibited here. There is nothing comparable to his work on display. I think that the warmth, positivity and authenticity of Dan Green's work is missing. It would add a different and positive perspective to the documentation of this area's Khmer people.  For the next one, good luck convincing them you are Asian Dan (but you do have Italian blood!).  I reckon they should invite you to exhibit anyway.

If you want to know more about the festival there is a blog:

http://www.photographyforchange.net/festivalhome.html

Random observations 2

More pyjama sightings
The images speak for themselves.


At the bank



At a boat blessing ceremony

Qung Yo or 60 Road Market
One of the places that I have visited a  couple of times with Phalla is the Qung Yo Market and fair ground. If you want to see where the locals gather in Siem Reap after 6 every evening head to Qung Yo Market. It is a daily feast of local food, delicacies and a permanent funfair that entertains all ages. The market and funfair spreads around the main roundabout leading to the Angor Wat temples entry. There are mainly food stalls but there are also other goodies of  practical use to locals rather than tourists (clothes, hats, shoes). There are carpets laid out by the riverside and behind food stalls for the locals to spread on, enjoy their food and each others' company. My favourite thing here is the food: particularly the deep fried prawns and rice cakes. Sitting on a carpet and enjoying a 'light' evening meal is so familiar and comfortable to me. I love the fact that this is the locals' area. And they are all so welcoming to me being really discreet in their amazement to see me join their humble crowd.

Clearly, the Cambodian are fun loving people and enjoy socialising every night of the week.  Phalla loves this place for another reason. There is a row  stalls with his favourite game ; the ballon darts game. The aim of the game is to pop as many ballons as possible with the wonky darts you get. It is not that hard to get the balloons and we always leave with sweets or a drink. It is really worth a game just to see the sheer and sincere enthusiasm on Phalla's face.

Build up to the Water Festival
This morning I observe even more people in the streets of Siem Reap. There are continuous processions of monks and nuns, playing music and collecting donations. Boat blessings ceremonies are followed by loud music and celebrations even in the early morning. More countryside people are camping by the river. Close to Matt's bar there are local trade and food stalls up already. It is getting busier by the minute. I am intrigued and happy that I am not going to miss out on the Water Festival after all. It seems that I am in for a treat on Saturday, my last day in Siem Reap.

Adrian: off the road and the beaten track

I am tired but restless tonight. Each day has been melting into the other and time has been flowing slowly connecting experiences, emotions, images, thoughts and people. It feels like I have lived in Siem Reap for a long long time. I am attached to my friends.  I feel connected to the locals. They no longer treat me as a sighting. I have adapted so well that they don’t chase me up to offer me tuk tuk lifts or sell me things in the same frequency. I don’t feel, and perhaps this is why I don’t seem, lost. Tonight, I have done the maths and I realise am leaving on Saturday, in just one and a half days. My departure is impending.

I jump on a green bicycle today and head to Matt’s Chilli bar. Matt is a friendly Aussie who runs a bar along the river 10 minutes away from my hostel on the bike. I was attracted to the bar by its beautiful outdoor riverside area with a swing. A few nights ago Matt joined me for a chat as I was enjoying an quiet evening on the swing. Inside the bar I met Annie, Tammy and Eda. Annie has lived in Cmabodia for 10 years and runs a language school and Tammy and Eda work here as English teachers. Annie I have not written much about but I do hope she keeps in touch with me because she is just so interesting.  Tonight I am back to leave Annie my ….marmite jar. Here I said it: I admit I am aaddicted to Marmite and brought it along with me. In my defense this is because some internet forum entries had convinced me that Marmite, which is high in vitamin B, is an effective mosquito repellent (when eaten and not applied to the skin). Soon I find that DEET is the only effective mosquito repellent for me. Annie is gagging for marmite so I think it best to pass the wonderful substance from one marmite junky to another.

But Annie is not around tonight, the bar is heaving  and is unrecognisable. It is mainly a group of 30 jolly men that fill the bar with laughter. They are not aggressive and drunk, just full of energy.

I almost regret getting a beer and sitting at my favourite spot , when about ten of them  come and sit at a table next to me. Have I become a recluse, a hermit and a snob of western crowds? As I observe them swiftly, I think ‘What an odd ensemble on different nationalities and ages?’.   The one closest to me introduces himself and starts chatting away.

Adrian and the boys are an ‘off road bikers’ group. The got together in Phnom Penh and biked around the country through to Siem Reap. Most of them don’t know each other. They book similar journeys at least once a year and travel through countries for 2 -3 or more weeks. There is a Welsh lad who waives excitedly when he hears I live in Cardiff. I mainly chat to Adrian about their journey. He comes to life when he talks about traveling through the countryside and the jungle not following roads and tracks, camping and sleeping in monasteries where they are welcomed by monks. He has crossed Cambodia in just over a week and will continue traveling around the rest of it for the remaining time. Tonight is their night of luxury.

I enjoy meeting people who introduce me to new ways of viewing the world. Traveling off road on a motorbike offers a different perspective and gives you much freedom from conventional routes. I would still prefer cycling through and I joke with Adrian about the group's environmental impact.

Adrian also tells me about visiting Ghana in the same manner. On that journey the group planned to stop at different schools and charities and do some hands on work. The groups are diverse in professions, skills and crafts. Some of the plumbers and electricians were deified in Africa and did essential work to schools and hospitals when they passed through.

Adrian who is down to earth and approachable seem to run a large and profitable business. He is really modest about it.  I am suddenly very tired and the rest of the group wants to head the noisy pub street near the old market. I really want to stop them from going there but then who am I am to interfere with people’s choice? I am somehow convinced that they will not last long there.