Shadow puppets and celestial dancers

I was intrigued to find out about Khmer shadow puppetry. During my childhood the stories and comedy of shadow theatre offered me endless hours of entertainment in Greece. Karagiozis and the rest of his shadow theatre cast were no longer widely encountered in street theatre performances when I was growing up but there were still regular TV shows during the week, which I hardly missed. In Cambodian shadow puppet theatre I see the origins of the Greek Karagiozis. I don’t understand a word of Khmer but I am in stitches as the puppeteers do their slapstick comedy act hurting each other and making funny voices. I love this a bit too much.

I also get the opportunity to catch some Apsara dancing, the ballet of the celestial dancers. This is a form of traditional Khmer classical ballet. Beautiful female dancers offer a delicate dance in intricately ornamented costumes. The choreography is acted out not just by movement but also gentle facial expressions, eyelid batting and subtle neck tilts and shakes. The Khmer women and their movement are ethereal. Perhaps the most impressive of all their moves is the arch of their elastic fingers, with hands held in prayer and fingers almost freakishly bending backwards. Their hands remain pointed this way throughout their performance. I try holding this position for a minute and I get a cramp.

I have the best ending to the laziest day of the week. Above the restaurant of my hostel I discover a serene massage area. I have booked myself for a Thai massage. An hour of rubbing, realigning my spine and then I am off to sleep. Untangled and lighter…